While there is nothing wrong with using bamboo for trellises and stakes in the garden, I’m a big believer in using what you have. Today I am harvesting the stalks from my sunchoke plants to use as a support for next year‘s crops.
Sunchokes reach somewhere between 10 to 12 feet tall, so I will be cutting off the top half of the stalk where the blossom, foliage, and skinnier/weaker stem portion reside. I am cutting the base of the stalk at the soil line above the tuber. Discarded plant material like the tops or stalks that are deemed too slender/weak to use can be composted. To store my sunchoke stalks, I will be keeping them inside of my barn throughout the winter. Though as an experiment I left a couple of stalks outdoors throughout last winter and—still—they did not rot, I recommend storing in a dry place for longevity. ABOUT SUNCHOKES
If you are interested in growing your own sunchokes I have tubers available on my website. Creating a Sustainable Garden with Rotting Logs and Woodchips on the Permaculture Homestead10/29/2024
In nature we see rotting logs on every forest floor. These fallen trees provide shelter and food to insects, small critters, and mushrooms. They contribute to the greater mycorrhizal network, add nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to soil, and provide a place to grow a mushroom crop. Rotting logs and large wood chunks can be a great addition to growing spaces and fruit tree guilds. There needs to be a Nitrogen to Carbon balance in any natural decomposition cycle. Carbon items like logs need nitrogen to break down. But already rotting logs requires less nitrogen and, therefore, will soak up less from tree soil. Add compost around trees in addition to green guild members to balance out nitrogen. Video Time Stamps: 0:00 The role of logs in nature 0:56 How logs decompose 1:52 Using rotted stumps on our homestead 2:37 Using Black Walnut wood (juglone concerns) 3:22 Spreading rotted log mulch in fruit tree guilds 4:40 Why I prefer rotted chips and wood for tree mulch 4:59 Moisture control with larger chunks of rotting wood 5:37 Maintaining soil nitrogen levels with guild member growth 6:18 Garden pro-tip Relevant sources and information:
Ecosystem Processes Related to Wood Decay Can I use woodchips from walnut as mulch in my landscape? Growing the world’s most expensive spice is easy and feasible in many climates. I’ve had great success with saffron here in NJ, zone 7, and am actually planting more today. I got mine from Tara at She’s Rooted Home: https://shesrootedhome.com
Saffron is grown by way of a corm. I have grown this without issue in one portion of my yard for three seasons. This year I’m planting more in an area with vole activity. I’m making and will be using a cage for protection. Here's the video time stamps if you're looking for a short cut in this tutorial: 0:00 Introduction to Saffron 1:12 Harvesting saffron 1:32 Growing saffron corms 1:58 Companion planting for saffron 2:45 Making a vole-proof crop cage for saffron  Calendula is well known within the homesteading community for its medicinal properties. While beautiful and certainly a staple for many home apothecaries, this plant pulls its weight in the garden too. It's not traditionally considered a permaculture powerhouse, however, calendula definitely has much to offer.
Varieties shown: Ivory Princess, Bronzed Beauty, Sunset Buff
 Many gardeners and growers hear the word "comfrey" and they run the other direction. Not to worry--the comfrey I am recommending and use commonly in my growing spaces is Russian Comfrey, a plant that produces sterile seed. This strain of comfrey does not spread nor become invasive but, rather, grows upright like an ornamental shrub. I use it heavily throughout my farm for its ridiculous amount of value and function. Comfrey is celebrated by permaculture growers around the world because it offers the following: NUTRIENT ACCUMULATION Comfrey has a strong and deep taproot system that mines nutrients from deep within the soil's sublayers. These roots draw those nutrients upwards, into more shallow soil layers, making them accessible for nearby plants. CHOP AND DROP MULCH Comfrey stores much of the nutrients that it mines in its leaves and stems. Combine this with the fact that comfrey can get tall and benefits from pruning. There you have the recipe for a perfect chop and drop plant. Simply cut the foliage back to an inch or so above the soil line and spread the leaves and stems as you would mulching straw over your growing soil. As the leaves decay they add organic matter back into the soil, attracting earthworms and other decomposers, and release their nutrients into the topsoil. MEDICINAL USES
If you practice herbal medicine or keep a home apothecary, there are loads of uses for comfrey. This plant has been used for centuries for inflammation, swelling, and its other many healing properties. POLLINATOR ATTRACTOR Comfrey boasts beautiful little bell-shaped blossoms in a pink-purple hue. These little flowers are hugely attractive and beneficial to honeybees and native pollinators. They also attract beneficial wasps and other predatory insects. Naturally, if planted in your garden, pollinators will be sure to visit food crop blossoms as well, increasing your crop yield. REPELLER Some folks have a difficult time with comfrey when it comes to contact dermatitis. The plants have fine hairs on their leaves and stems which can cause irritation. This is why many deer, rabbits, and other critters find it to be repulsive. When comfrey is interplanted with fruit and vegetable crops, it tends to deter wildlife looking for a snack. BIOMASS Comfrey grows quickly. I'm easily able to cut the plant back for use as a mulch three to four times in one season. The foliage is thick and this rapid production makes comfrey an excellent contributor of biomass (biological matter) to the soil when applied as mulch. FERTILIZER Compost tea is a popular method for fertilizing a garden without synthetic additives. The same approach can be taken with comfrey leaves. Simply chop and macerate comfrey leaves and place in a five-gallon bucket. Fill with unchlorinated water. Allow to steep for several days, until the contents are smelly and sludgy (gross, I know). This concentrate will need to be diluted to 1 part comfrey tea to 10 parts water. Use a watering can or weed sprayer to apply to your soil, stems, and plant leaves. WEED SUPPRESSION Due to the thick and full growth habit of comfrey, weeds are quickly and easily choked out. I use comfrey in my garden, in my tree guilds, and in my food forest growing spaces. Weeds have yet to grow up and through this hardy crop. PROPAGATION Comfrey is in demand as many growers turn to more natural methods of farming. Because comfrey is so vigorous, it can easily regenerate itself from a small root cutting. Simply digging up roots, separating them, and repotting can result in loads of new plants. This creates a steady supply for the homestead with plenty to sell for a profit. COMPOST HEAP ACTIVATION Because comfrey is so nutrient rich and an excellent source of biomass, it can contribute to the compost heap. When comfrey is included in the pile, some folks believe it actually heats up the entire heap faster, making compost more readily available in a shorter amount of time. It also passes all of the nutrients it has absorbed into the pile.  I grow lots of blossoms alongside my food crops. Rather than segregate food and flowers, they’re woven together. I use herbs and flowers often as companions interplanted with my food (you can find many posts in the "permaculture" and "growing" categories based on companion plant benefits and specifics). But in this post, I wanted to talk about my approach or method of gardening which is my "layered permaculture garden method." I call it a layering method because I sow calendula, for example, in the spring alongside veggies. As the first layer of veggies reach maturity, the second layer (the calendula) is still small but supporting the food crops. By the time spring veggies are spent and done, the second layer of flowers reaches full height. The second layer shrouds any gaps from the first layer, protecting the soil. This means I often plant veggies and herbs first and wait a week or two before adding in some flower varieties to fill gaps in the spring. This ensures the growth rate of the flowers doesn’t crowd out and suppress food crops.   As for layering a third and fourth planting, I absolutely do this come mid-summer. When I'm ready to plant for fall harvests in mid-July through August, crops like beets, carrots, fennel, greens, kale, broccoli, and other brassicas are inserted amongst the flowers. The permaculture benefit of planting seedlings this way is huge. Often the scent of many flowering herbs like oregano, lavender, nasturtium, basil, etc., is enough to deter cabbage moths and other pests. Conversely, beneficial insects are attracted to the blooms surrounding the crops, which increases pollination of veggie blossoms. Parasitic wasps are drawn to the garden and prey on any "bad bugs" loitering within. This leaves my new veggies protected while they grow. Cold loving flowers like calendula can be seeded as a fourth layer a few weeks after the third layer is planted.
As for the flowers that I choose, I go for self-seeding annuals for less work, like nigella, borage, chamomile and calendula. I heavily use perennials like lavender, non-invasive tansy, sterile comfrey, verbascum, speedwell, coneflower, foxglove, daisies, yarrow, rudbeckia, anemone, and roses to name a few. The benefits of perennials are many to the overall homestead ecosystem including increased carbon absorption by way of their woody plant tissues, their deep root networks which increase soil fertility, the fact that you don't have to replant them each year, the concept of them coming back and bigger and more full each season, and the many uses most of these perennials provide from edible rose petals to medicinal yarrow.  Let’s talk about another permaculture powerhouse plant that’s actually in the same family as comfrey. It’s borage and, hopefully, after reading below, you’ll add it to your growing space too. :)
There are said to be loads of medicinal benefits of BORAGE. If you’re into the home apothecary, this may help an excellent plant to research.   When looking for companion plants for my vegetable growing spaces or for my fruit tree guilds, I always look first to plants that have stacked functions. Multipurpose plants can bring more than one benefit to a growing space. Common permaculture plants favored for their multiple benefits include Sunchokes (aka Jerusalem Artichokes), Comfrey, and Elderberry. Another incredible companion, which I turn to often, is Yarrow. Common Yarrow is prevalent throughout the six-acres of my farm. I've allowed wild clusters to accumulate in my food forests, have split and planted them in my guilds, and have started bringing in various colors for visual diversity. But it's not just the aesthetics that are pleasing--yarrow is loaded with function for any growing space:
This incredible plant is native to much of the United States which means it's likely already hardy and well-adapted to your microclimate, serves the local ecosystem, and will not displace nor eradicate local plantings. Elderberry is literally one of the most useful plants on the homestead. The flowers, berries, plant tissue, and root systems all have functions. And even better yet--it's incredibly easy to propagate. I planted my first elderberry about seven years ago in a bad location before I realized how large and how quickly these plants grow. Now, I use it for cuttings and propagation for other portions of the property. I personally use the berries for dehydrating and making homemade elderberry syrup, but I also am working on creating privacy hedges and windbreaks from these strong and hardy plants.
To make a cutting, be sure to cut new shoots at the base of the soil line. All cuts should be 45-degree angles and each section should host lots of nodes or future root buds. From there, the cuttings can be stored in water to promote root growth, potted in seedling containers until you're ready to place them in their permanent homes, or planted right in the ground at their forever location. No rooting hormone is required. Be sure to plant the elderberry cuttings at a minimum of 2" deep for best root network development. Elderberries love compost and water. They also prefer a partial- to full-sun location. It's worth mentioning here again that more than one variety of elderberry is not required, but certainly is helpful in increasing your yields. Pruning young fruit trees too much can cause over pruning damage and even death. Too little can cause branch wounds from rubbing, invite pests and disease, and decrease sunlight… which affects fruit! In this demo I'm sharing:
1. my rule for low branch trimming 2. what to remove 3. how to deal with bag worms the permaculture way 4. covering what is black knot fungus 5. removing suckers 6. how to trim a fruiting shrub back to a tree This video is just a basic overview for young fruiting trees. If you're looking for tips on fruit tree shaping, I've got a video on that here! |
Angela is the farmer and content creator behind Axe & Root Homestead® LLC. This historic six-acre permaculture farm is home to two Clydesdale horses, ten honeybee hives, five sheep, two guardian dogs, barn cats and a flock of 40 geese and ducks. The farm produces maple syrup, fruit from a small orchard and loads of garden produce for consumption, preservation and donation to the local food pantry.
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